| How to Buy Pearls |
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| | How to Buy PearlsVarious Kinds of Pearls – Step 1 Identify Quality – Step 2 Pearl Size and Necklace Length – Step 3 With the rapid technological advances in culturing pearls, never before have there been so many beautiful pearl choices at such reasonable costs. Pearls are available today to match every occasion, every personal style, and every budget. When buying pearls, it is very important to take the time to, among other factors, compare various types, qualities, sizes and market values. At Pearl Amor, we understand the importance of educating our customers and have therefore carefully put together the following simple 3 step process to help you begin purchasing fine pearl jewelry. Our hope is that in a short period of time, you will gain the confidence to buy pearls and to enjoy them for a lifetime. Various Kinds of Pearls – Step 1 Depending on the type of oyster that produced them and what part of the world they are from, pearls come in a wide range of shapes, lusters, and mysterious colors. For the purpose of this guide, there are four types of pearls that you are likely to encounter in the marketplace; Akoya Pearls, Freshwater Pearls, Tahitian Pearls, and South Sea Pearls. AKOYA PEARL Saltwater Akoya Pearls are produced by the Japanese Akoya Oyster (Pinctada Fucata Martensii). Best known for their deep luster, rich color, and perfectly round shapes, Akoyas are the most popular and classic. The Akoya cultured pearl made its debut in 1905 when Kokichi Mikimoto first introduced the technique to produce round pearls by the process of bead nucleation. Already by 1920, he had accomplished his lifelong dream to adorn the necks of ladies all around the world with his revolutionary Akoya cultured pearls. Depending on the size of the oyster and environmental conditions, the Akoya Pearl varies in size between 2 – 10mm. Akoya Pearls over 9mm are rare and highly valued on the market. Given that the Akoya oyster is the smallest commercial pearl producing oyster, the pearls tend to be small and are usually limited to producing no more than 2 pearls per harvest. Compare that to the freshwater pearl producing mussel that is capable of producing over 40 pearls at a time, and it is no surprise that Akoya Pearls command a higher value than freshwater pearls of similar quality. Akoya Pearls range in body color and overtone. Body color, referring to the basic color of the pearl, includes white, cream, green, silver, pink, and gold. Akoya overtones, or tints as seen in the central areas of the pearl under light, include rose (pink), green, silver, and blue. The most rare and valuable Akoya Pearl color is white with rose overtones; a green overtone is considered less desirable in white colored pearls and its presence reduces value. When evaluating quality Akoya Pearls, look for pearls with a mirror-like luster, radiant brilliance, clean surface, and perfectly round shape. FRESHWATER PEARL Freshwater pearls are the most common type of pearl and produced primarily in China by the freshwater mussel Hyriopsis Cumingi. The U.S. and Japan are also producers of freshwater pearls. These pearls are best known for their unusual shapes, wide variety of sizes, and range in colors. Differing from that of saltwater pearls, the process used to produce freshwater pearls does not require a shell nucleus but rather a tissue grafting technique that facilitates mass production. The mussel is also larger than that used to produce Akoya Pearls, resulting in the simultaneous production of up to 50 pearls at a time. Because only a mantle tissue is used without a bead nucleus, top quality freshwater pearls are essentially all nacre and offer a very good value. Freshwater pearls are available in a rainbow of natural colors and shapes, a much wider variety than saltwater pearls, giving them a special allure. Colors include white, orange, lavender, purple, violet, blue, rose, and silver. The variety of shapes includes round, drop, coin, button, rice, stick, and potato. Freshwater pearls vary in size from 1mm – 15mm. Although freshwater pearls are the most common and affordable among pearls, very round and lustrous pearls are difficult to find. When shopping for quality freshwater pearls, look for a radiant luster, clean surface, and shapes that are close to perfectly round. TAHITIAN PEARL Technically a South Sea Pearl but more commonly known as a Tahitian Pearl, this exotic pearl is produced by a special variety of the Black Lipped Oyster (Pinctada Margaritifera). Tahiti is the leading supplier of these rare, naturally black pearls along with The Cook Islands and other islands of French Polynesia. Only second to the South Sea Pearl, Tahitians are regarded as the most valuable pearls in the world. Although often referred to as black, Tahitian Pearls have a color range that covers the spectrum combining black, gray, blue, green, and brown. Along with these body colors, Tahitians are naturally enhanced by overtone colors including blue, gold, silver, pink, and reddish purple. Furthermore, different names are given to a combination of overtone and body colors. Greenish/black called peacock along with greenish/gray called pistachio are the most popular and valuable. Because of their wide color range, it becomes a challenge to collect enough pearls (usually in the thousands) that match in size, shape, and color to create a single necklace. Tahitian Pearls are among the largest; the most common sizes are between 8 – 15mm, although rare pearls up to 21mm have been found. Tahitian Pearls have the following shapes: round, semi-round, baroque, semi-baroque, ringed, and circled. As with other types of pearls, round is the most popular and valuable shape. SOUTH SEA PEARL Cultivated in the warm waters off Australia, Indonesia, Philippines, and Burma, South Sea Pearls are produced by the largest and most rare oysters in the world (Pinctada Maxima). The South Sea oyster only exists in a limited number of shell beds found in deep warm tropical seas and requires the most prolonged labor-intensive cultivating process to produce a pearl. These factors, along with their unequalled complex luster and larger size, make the South Sea Pearl the “Queen” of cultured pearls. Rare and expensive, South Sea Pearls usually start at 10mm in size and go up from there. Much larger than other pearl types, some have been found as large as 30mm. South Sea Pearls are cultivated for longer periods and are known to have much thicker nacre coatings than other pearls, and therefore they will last for generations to come. The different colors of the South Sea Pearl are dependent on the specific oyster type; White South Sea Pearls are produced by the Silver Lipped Pearl Oyster while Golden South Sea Pearls are produced by the Golden Lipped Pearl Oyster. The most expensive color is a warm pinkish-white due to its rarity but more popular is the silvery-white that is also relatively costly. Yellow-white is also available but is the least popular and tends to sell for much less. Currently in the greatest demand are the fancy intense, truly rich yellows with a wide variety of hues, including golden overtones. South Sea Pearl shapes include round, semi-round, teardrop, oval, and baroque. As with the other pearl types, perfectly round, along with teardrop as a second, is the best investment grade. Keep in mind that South Sea Pearls are cultivated for longer periods and have much thicker nacre than other pearls. While this provides by far an unparalleled and luxurious deep luster, South Sea Pearls are often less perfectly round and more blemished than their smaller Japanese Akoya cousins. Nonetheless, they are not only very beautiful and expensive, South Sea Pearls generally retain the highest value of all pearl types. Identify Quality – Step 2 Even more important than knowing the different types of pearls is understanding what makes or does not make a quality pearl and learning how to tell the difference. With such an array of pearls available at vastly different prices, quality is the #1 consideration in selecting cultured pearls that will not only have lasting beauty but will hold their value and even improve in value with time. In discussing pearl quality, you can be assured that Pearl Amor only sells investment grade pearls respective to each pearl type at the fairest price available on the market. In this quality section of our guide, we embrace the opportunity to walk you through the process of purchasing the finest and most beautiful pearls. While there is no definitive internationally accepted grading system for pearls, most pearl dealers and jewelry retailers use the same alphabetical nomenclature to denote quality. Generally accepted, pearls are graded “Triple A” (AAA), “Double A” (AA), “A”, “B”, or “C”. However, with such a system, it would be misleading to assume that one is evaluating comparable pearls based on these perceived quality terms. This makes learning HOW and WHAT to examine that much more critical in determining pearl quality. The first HOW, when examining pearls, is to view them against a neutral and non-glossy background. A flat white background such as tissue paper would be sufficient. Avoid black backgrounds as black makes it very difficult to see the subtle differences in a pearl. The second HOW is to view pearls in daylight or under a fluorescent light. Avoid any intense spotlights as luster will falsely appear more intense. Keeping in mind that the type of light used to examine pearls will affect what you see, whenever possible, compare pearls under the same light conditions. Even better, compare them in the same place and at the same time of day. The third HOW is to view pearls at a right angle to your body. When comparing strands of pearls, it’s always best to lay them at a right angle to your body with the strands close to one another but not touching. This is the easiest way to see the subtle differences in color and luster. Now that we’ve briefly covered HOW to view pearls when comparing quality, we will look at WHAT to examine. Regardless of the type of pearl, the following are the factors evaluated in determining pearl quality and value: Above all else, LUSTER is the single most important determinant of a pearl’s expression of beauty. The first thing you notice when you find a fine pearl is its lustrous glow. Luster is defined as an intense brightness that is the result of light traveling through the layers of nacre and being reflected back from within the pearl. Luster is evaluated on the brightness of the reflection the pearl gives off, which depends upon the quality and thickness of the nacre produced by the mollusk. A pearl with high luster will shine bright and give off a mirror-like glow. A good indicator is being able to see your reflection very clearly on the surface of the lustrous pearl. At Pearl Amor, we evaluate luster at four levels: 1.High/Intense, 2.High, 3.Medium, 4.Low. NACRE THICKNESS, refers to the lustrous coating that the oyster forms around the pearl. It is critical in not only affecting the beauty but also the longevity of the pearl. Determined by the length of time the pearl grows in the oyster, a nacre thickness of at least 0.4mm will ensure lasting beauty that extends over a lifetime. The following are some easy ways to evaluate nacre thickness so as to avoid pearls with thin nacres, which do not last:
SURFACE PERFECTION refers to a pearl’s shine and is determined by the existence of small blisters, pimples, dark colorations, indents, welts, bumps, spots, or cracks. With all pearl types, the cleaner and more free of imperfections, the more rare and greater the value of the pearl. Practically speaking, there is no such thing as a completely flawless pearl. In balancing the quality factors of a pearl, keep in mind that if the pearl has an intense luster, most blemishes won’t even be noticed. On the other hand, a dull chalky pearl will clearly show every blemish no matter how small. Above all else, avoid pearls with cracks as they indicate thin peeling nacre. Pearls are divided into three SHAPE categories: spherical, symmetrical, and baroque. As is the case with all pearl types, the rounder a pearl, the higher its value. Other shapes that are being produced today that do not conventionally fall into the three primary categories include coin, bars, and potato. Any strand of pearls should be well matched for shape and have an appearance of uniformity. The SIZE of a pearl is measured in millimeters and indicates the diameter of a round pearl, or the length and width of a pearl that is not round. Simply stated, the larger the pearl, the greater the cost and value. A dramatic jump in price occurs as when Akoya Pearls measure larger than 8mm. Each half millimeter up from there increases the price rapidly. In the case of South Sea and Tahitian Pearls, cost is affected drastically as sizes exceed 15mm. BODY COLOR is the basic color of a pearl with the most common being white and cream. Other colors include pink, gold, gray, black, blue, and green. In addition to body color, pearls have an overtone. An overtone refers to the presence of a secondary color (tint), which is usually a pink, silver, green, or blue. When referring to the color of a pearl, we are indicating a combination of the body color and overtone. The choice of color and overtone is a very personal one, but keep in mind that once the pearl is worn, it is very difficult to distinguish overtones as they are very subtle. As a general rule of thumb, pearls with warm colors such as white-rose, gold, and rich cream as well as pearls with dark colors such as black, gray, and peacock, flatter fair skin. Light colored pearls such as white, pink, peach, and silver better complement darker skin tones. White pearls with a blush of pink are the most rare and expensive. Pearl Size and Necklace Length – Step 3 Size does matter. In the same way that roses of different colors signify certain emotions or that anniversaries have traditional gifts, pearl sizes correspond to the wearer’s age and are specific to different occasions. Pearls are measured in millimeters by the diameter with the most popular sizes for pearl necklaces falling between 6.5 to 8mm. The following is a breakdown of different pearl sizes along with their respective general age brackets and significance. Although age alone is not always the determining factor of pearl size, it is advisable to generally remain within one pearl size on either side of the age bracket. For example, on a 16 year old, a 9mm pearl necklace would look too big and may give the impression that she is too young to be wearing such pearls. 5.5 – 6mm Pearl Necklace The ideal size for young teens 12 to 16 years of age. This size is also appropriate for petite women, or taller women when worn as a double or triple strand. Popular gift-giving occasions for this size include Christmas, birthdays, graduations, and coming of age celebrations such as Bat Mitzvahs, and sweet sixteens. 6 – 6.5mm Pearl Necklace Generally bought for older teens 16 to 24, who are closer to their adult height. This pearl size is also ideal for petite women and young adults who are starting new careers. Popular gift-giving occasions for this pearl size more or less follow the same guidelines as 5.5-6mm. 6.5 – 7mm Pearl Necklace Ideal for 25 to 30 year olds, this size has become the most commonly available in jewelry stores. Perfect for the young professional or for casual wear, this size looks luxurious and yet remains affordable. 7 – 7.5mm Pearl Necklace For younger women 30 and up, it is the best choice for a necklace to wear for a first day of work as a career woman. Classic and beautiful, this pearl size is ideal for the first time buyer. Popular gift-giving occasions for this size include college graduations, weddings, Mother’s Day, and just about any other important day in a young woman’s life. 7.5 – 8mm Pearl Necklace Neither too small nor too big, an impressive size generally worn by women 30 and up. This is the largest size in the lower bracket of more readily available sizes. The next half size up from here doubles in price. This elegant size is a favorite for the upwardly mobile career woman as it is not too showy yet exudes an image of importance; a perfect size gift for weddings, Mother’s Day, and anniversaries. 8 – 8.5mm Pearl Necklace Considered a large sized pearl, recommended for women 35 and up. Easily worn with everyday wear yet also versatile in playing the part at a formal black-tie event. A luxurious pearl size fit for a woman who loves pearls, it makes a valuable gift for an anniversary, birthday, new motherhood, or any other special occasion worthy of such a rare gift. 8.5 – 9mm Pearl Necklace Considered the “Power Strand,” a classy, elegant, and chic size recommended for women 37 to 45 or in their extremely successful 30s. This size, made popular by Jackie Onassis, will be deeply appreciated by any woman who loves and knows her pearls; a most impressive gift for an important anniversary, birthday, or special event. 9 – 10mm Pearl Necklace A regal size, generally for women 45 and up. Akoya Pearls simply don’t get larger than this. Exceptionally valuable, a strand of these pearls is truly a luxurious gift perfect for a milestone anniversary or for any woman who simply won’t settle for anything but the best. 10mm and above Pearl Necklace These sizes are typically composed of Black Tahitian Pearls or White South Sea Pearls. Akoya Pearls in these sizes are rare to non-existent. Mostly graduated strands, these pearl sizes are sure to make a statement of luxury. NECKLACE LENGTH Selecting the right necklace length is an important choice and is determined by the wearer’s personal style and the specific occasion. The standard classic 17 to 19 inch princess length is traditionally common, but recent fashion trends are changing that. Many women are even layering their pearl necklaces resembling the ultra-chic Coco Chanel who stylishly wore six or seven necklaces at a time. The idea here is, the more the better. The following are popular lengths of pearl strands along with a few guidelines for wear. Collar Pearl Necklace 12 to 13 inches long, pearl collars are often made of multiple strands and fit snugly across the middle of the neck. This length is suited well for V-neck and off the shoulder fashions. Choker Pearl Necklace 14 to 16 inches long and lying in the hollow of her neck, a pearl choker is perhaps the most versatile length complementing almost any neckline. This length is appropriate for both casual and formal evening wear; a preference for younger women and appropriate as a gift for her first necklace. Princess Pearl Necklace 17 to 19 inches long and falling just below most collar lines, the pearl princess length is the most popular and a good choice for anyone who is not certain which strand length is most appropriate. The classic length for pearl necklaces, it is very suitable for button up blouses, V-necks, and also complements low, plunging necklines. Matinee Pearl Necklace 20 to 24 inches long and ideal for high necklines, the matinee pearl necklace length is well suited for both casual and business attire. This length can also be paired with one of the shorter for a luxurious layered look. Opera Pearl Necklace 28 to 34 inches long, the opera pearl necklace length rests in the middle of a woman’s chest area. This length offers many attractive options and is suitable for layering. It can also be worn as a double strand or knotted at the neckline to create a fashionable vintage style. Although traditionally worn at formal events, opera lengths used to accessorize casual attire is becoming a bold fashion statement. Rope Pearl Necklace 36 inches and longer, the rope pearl necklace length is a luxurious look and can be worn as a double or triple strand. Becoming more popular as high fashion and as seen in trendy magazines, pearl ropes can be knotted and slung over the shoulder to accentuate the beauty of a backless dress. | | |||||||||||
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